Prague

All I knew of Prague was that there is a famous bridge lined with statues - the Charles Bridge.  And something about a "Prague Spring" and a Russian invasion.  We travelled here in a very nice bus, yellow with big mirrors so it resembled a wasp.  However it was very comfortable and had little entertainment screens, a toilet, and coffee making facilities on board!  Perfect.

Leaving Cesky Krumlov

They like painting each building a different pastel shade.

An ornate synagogue near to our hotel.

Inside was quite interesting.  We had never been in a synagogue.

The synagogue again.

One of a couple of remaining watch towers from the city wall.

The old watch towers which remain look very black and dirty.  They are of sandstone which absorbs air pollution and is very difficult (expensive) to clean without damaging the stone.  Apparently much of the city looked like this after years of neglect under communism, but most of them have since been cleaned and restored.

The oldest operating astronomical clock in the universe?

The historic astronomical clock is on the tower of the old town hall in the square, and sports a number of dials and hands to tell the time, the date, the phases of the moon, and the signs of the zodiac.  Every hour it chimes and a mechanised parade of saints appears along with other mechanical wonders.  Large crowds gather to witness and film the spectacle, which lasts about 15 seconds and has been described as totally "underwhelming".  We can only agree.  We did however buy tickets which allowed us to climb the tower, which provides a great view over the square.

The famous Charles Bridge.

On the Charles Bridge, crowded with pesky tourists!  It is still woolly-hat cold.

Johanna pointing out the marker for the height of the 2002 floods.

In this photo (above) the marker for the 2002 floods is the top one, right up on the yellow part of the wall.  Those floods caused tremendous damage along the river (and also in Cesky Krumlov).

A school group posing in front of the John Lennon wall.

The John Lennon wall started as a protest against the communist authorities in then 1980s, with graffiti criticising the government painted over each day, only to reappear over night.  It has continued to be used as a canvas for protest messages as well as for more serious street art.

Next morning we assembled early to beat the queues at Prague Castle.  We rode there on a tram and arrived there as it opened, and, sure enough, ahead of the crowds.  The castle originated back in the 9th century, and now incudes the residence of the Czech president.  We believe he was in one of the three black limousines which glided past us as we collected our tickets.  The castle is the largest ancient castle in the world, occupying 70,000 square metres.  It includes the huge St Vitus cathedral.

Some of the beautiful stained glass in St Vitus church.

The ornate sarcophagus of Saint John of Nepomuk in St Vitus cathedral.

St John of Nepomuk is a sort of patron saint of bridges in Czeckia, and his statue appears on the Charles Bridge as well as on numerous lesser bridges including the new one at Cesky Krumlov.  He is recognisable by the five star halo adorning his head.  The story is that he was a priest who was ordered drowned by King Wencelas because he refused to pass on the queen's confessions to the king.

Sue and St John on the Charles Bridge.

The scene of some famous "defenestrations" (throwing of people out windows).

One of the great halls within the palace.

The crown jewels are stored here.  This is a replica for display.

At 10 am we saw the 100 metre South Tower of the cathedral had opened, so bought tickets and climbed the 280 steps to the top.  There are great views from up there in all directions - both over the old city and in other directions over the newer suburbs on the surrounding hills.

A rooster high on the castle church roof, seen from the tower.

Inside the castle walls is a narrow strip called the "Golden Lane", which is a line of tiny historic houses, shops and studios which started out as habitations in recesses along the inside of the castle wall, and which over the centuries were developed into the dwellings there today.

Proof of life from us, in the Golden Lane, Prague Castle.

One of the original tiny houses?  In the Golden Lane.

This is the famous "Dancing house" by architect Gehry.

There are several islands in the Vltava river at Prague.

The trams are easy to use, and go many places.

"King Wencelas riding an upside-down dead horse".  No comment.

Sue in one of the main shopping streets, a long avenue with the Nardoni Museum at the end.

The crowd goes wild when the famous clock bursts into action.

The very "Harry Potter" Church of Our Lady beside the square.

Looking down on the square from the old town hall tower.

Traffic lights control who goes up and down the stairs.

An exuberant brass band playing outside the station.

The new railway station concourse was built beneath the original station.

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Krakow

(28 April) Our "Highlights of Central Europe" tour has rolled on now to Krakow, Poland.  We travelled here on a fast, smooth train and disembarked at the huge central railway station, which also happens to be the largest shopping mall in the city.  The train seemed quite shiny and new.  From the train the countryside rolling past looked very similar to much of Europe.  As in Czechia there are large areas in canola crops, in wheat, or freshly ploughed, and almost no fences or livestock.  Just the occasional surprised deer, and the little shooting lookouts which dot the landscape.  The houses and buildings are generally brick or plastered, with a few rare wooden ones.  The landscape is gentle and rolling for huge distances, and looks like fertile farmland.  We can imagine why Polish farmers might be getting upset at the prospect of cheap Ukrainian grain being allowed into their markets, as it must be an important leg of the economy here.

Our guide Johanna gave us the usual orientation walk around the old city.  Like many before it there is the old town with a large central market square, bordered in this case by a park marking the course taken by the old town wall.  South of the old town is the castle, on a hill beside the river "Vistula".  There are dozens of churches, there are horse-drawn carriages for the tourists, and the old buildings generally came through WWII unscathed.  The trams roll right past our hotel, so noise could be a problem for those trying to sleep!

The weather has done a complete about-face, and is now very warm and fine.  The locals are out in large numbers strolling in the town and filling the al fresco restaurants around the market square, in their summer clothes.  They must be locals because so many have dogs and/or little children in tow.

On Monday (29 April) we had to get up Very Early, reporting for departure at 6:45 am.  We boarded our private quite comfortable bus for our day out, first to visit Auschwitz which is about one hour's drive, then on to the salt mine near Krakow.  Visiting Auschwitz is a grim experience of course, and we know the story of what was done there fairly well.  I didn't take many photos.  The weather was clear and warm, so that offset the terrible story a bit.

We are following the footsteps of Lisa and Adam here, so have already seen their comprehensive photo story on the Kopalnia salt mine too, but it looked so interesting that we signed up to visit that too.  And it is pretty amazing!  Over a million people visit each year, and walk through the maze of stairs and tunnels linking the underground chambers which have been hollowed out over the centuries.  The largest spaces are enormous.  Today deep underground there is a cafe and souvenir shops! 

Lisa's trip report from Krakow has pretty much the same photos as this post, but a lot more of them!

Our train was the same as this one.

A typical view from the train

The team crowded into the Hotel Polonia

In the old town

Guide Johanna explaining the layout of the city to us

Beautiful glass (c1900) in the Church of St Francis of Assisi.

Up at the castle, inside the grounds.

Roughing it in Krakow.  Great rhubarb crumble!

The city gate tower, from the 1300s.

Lots of people out taking advantage of the summery weather.

More countryside, this time from our bus to Auschwitz.

The infamous gate to Auschwitz-Birkenau.

Our tour included Auschwitz-Birkenhau, or "Auschwitz 2", which is close to the original "Auschwitz 1" and was a newer "more efficient" camp.  Our guide said the name actually described a complex of about 50 camps.

Deep underground in the salt mine.  The "cathedral".

Everything here is salt (and wood).  Salt crystals form the chandeliers.

Massive timber structures brace every space.

Souvenir shopping 100 metres underground.

Locals at the tram stop.

In the market place hall.

Outside the market place hall, in the square.

We had to re-enact a photo Lisa took at this spot.

Yesterday we were reviewing Lisa's photos and realised we are staying in the same hotel they did!  Of course we then had to re-enact her photos and see if she came to the same conclusion.

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