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Monday, 24 June 2024

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Sunday, 9 June 2024

Bern!

Bern is the capital of Switzerland.  We went there for a day in a last-minute change of plan, going from Lucerne to Bern to Zurich rather than taking the direct route.  We had the time, and thought it would be interesting to see, and of course the trains are free!

Bern has a thing about bears.  There is a bear on its flag; its name is almost "bear"; there are bear statues; and there are actual bears in a park at the end of the main street.  The bears have been around since about 1500.  The old town is on a loop in the river, rather like a big version of Czesky Krumlov, and the parliament buildings are there.  They and many other buildings were built using the local sandstone, which is a rather dull grey/green colour.  The city is one of the best preserved medieval cities in Europe.

The parliament building in Federation Square..

The old town has these sheltered sidewalks.


On a fountain outside the cathedral.


Fine ironwork adorning a shop.

Entrance to a hairdresser in a cellar.

The town is quite high above the river, looking down on houses nearer the water.

A bear in the bear park.

Bears are everywhere.

The river was filled with silt - melt water from the mountains?

Houses with their feet in the river.

Not sure what this bear is up to!  Helping out, I presume.

A street sloping down to the river.

Lunch time, siesta time!

Another bear?  The "Zahringerbrunnen".

The Zahringerbrunnen is a statue of a bear in armour built in 1535, a memorial to the bear shot here by the founder of Bern.

A few metres away is the famous astrological clock (c1405), complete with little mechanical figures which perform when the clock chimes.  We waited with a small crowd of tourists glued to the clock as the time approached one o'clock.  It was an anticlimax - nothing (much) happened!

Waiting for the Zytglogge to chime.

Sue was very happy to discover another Gerry Weber shop!

The day improved greatly as the sun came out and blue sky open up.  We stayed until about 2pm before returning to the station to retrieve our bags and reboard the train for Zurich.


Friday, 7 June 2024

Lucerne

The "Golden Line" train trip from Interlaken to Lucerne travels east alongside Lake Brienz and on to Meiringen, where it reverses direction and climbs over a pass for the run down past more lakes to Lucerne.  This one is a clever train because it can race along at high speed until it comes to a steep climb or descent, when it turns into a cog rail train and proceeds slowly until it can resume full speed again.  I don't think we have been on any other train that does that?

The passing scenery is generally beautiful: Swiss postcard mountains, lakes, waterfalls and countryside.  The train has huge windows so you get a great view.

Sue keeping an eye on Lake Brienz early in the trip.

The lakes were all very calm today.

We did not reserve seats, but that was not a problem with not many passengers on board.


On the downhill run toward Lucerne.  Lake Sarner, I think.

Another lake, calm as a millpond.

Into Lucerne and off the train - back on our feet again.

We had an unplanned walk around the waterfront after my internal compass malfunctioned, but eventually made our way to our hotel - the Three Kings Hotel.

Our room had a little balcony, with this view of the street.

Lucerne is quite a big city (about 80,000 people) with an old town and a bit of history.  The waterfront along the lake is a pleasant walk and draws a lot of people out for a stroll. The Ruess River flows from the lake through the city, and was running quite swiftly (snow melt?).  There are a couple of famous old covered wooden bridges, which cross the river at an angle.  The longer one is the Chapel Bridge, constructed that way as part of the city defences long ago.  The smaller one once housed a couple of mills powered by the river.

The river flows strongly under the Chapel Bridge.

The old town has the usual narrow cobbled streets and quaint buildings, some with patterned tiled roofs and facades decorated with well-preserved paintings.  It was quite crowded with tourists and shoppers.

A square in the old city.

Not far from the waterfront is the "Dying Lion" monument, carved out of the rock about 200 years ago, to honour the thousands of Swiss mercenaries who fought and died in France.  It is quite impressive, due to the large size of the lion and his very expressive face!  The pool was a little scummy but can provide nice reflections.



The lion certainly looks miserable.

On the Chapel Bridge, looking to the old city bank.

The bridge is decorated with many paintings of scenes from history.


There are not a lot of standout things-to-see in Lucerne, so we went on a one-hour cruise on Lake Lucerne.  The weather was a bit cool and grey, but the lake very calm and flat.  We went well out to where we could see the luxury "Burgenstock" resort high on a cliff beside the lake, with its own cable car.  (Back in NZ I read that the European leaders met there this week to discuss the Ukraine war).

Sue got the best seat.

Purring quietly across the lake, on our electric boat.

When we returned to the jetty the waiting queue had grown considerably!

This coot liked perching on the rudder.

This restored paddle steamer also offers cruises, complete with authentic steam and whistle - but no smoke!

The enormous overhang on the convention centre next to the station.

Mysterious antennae spotted in Lucerne, and elsewhere.

We were puzzled by these high masts in Lucerne - and similar ones we saw in Murren.  Until the internet informed us that they are used in Switzerland to show how high a proposed building will be, so the neighbours can see how their view and sun might be affected.

Swiss door keys have these arrays of dents in them.

The little hotel in Lucerne was very nice, especially after our slightly unsatisfactory one in Interlaken.  A good breakfast was included, and they even had one of those pull-out washing lines in the bathroom which we have not seen for a long time!  Great for us small-bag travellers who have to wash clothes every night.

Next stop: Zurich!

The Niederhorn

The Niederhorn is another mountain destination near Interlaken which provides a relatively interesting and easy day out, which sounded like a nice way to spend our last day there.  It is 1,963 metres so not a big mountain by local standards, but it does give great views and is a popular hiking waypoint.  It is served by a gondola from Beatenberg and of course has a restaurant!  Anna suggested Niederhorn as a good trip because it can combine a boat ride, a cable car, a gondola ride, and some hiking if you are so inclined.  We decided to give it a go.

Our ferry arriving at Interlaken West, where it docks beside the railway station.

For about 30 min we cruised across the calm waters of Lake Thun.

We got off at Beatenbucht, at the foot of the cable car to Beatenburg.

In the cable car, climbing up away from the lake.

It is a long ride, including a tunnel.

At Beatenberg we transferred to this gondola for the ride to the summit.

Three cars travel together, holding up to 17 passengers each.  It was quiet today.

The steep cliffs on the back side of the Niederhorn.

The Niederhorn does not appear steep from the valley below, but from the top you can see that the northern side of the mountain is almost a sheer drop into the deep glacial valley on that side.

The valley floor far below.

Recharging in preparation for the walk back down!

We walked the first part of the descent, to rejoin the gondola part way down.  The first part was on a well-maintained path through the mountain meadows; further down it had disintegrated somewhat but was still quite easy going.

Setting out from the top of the Niederhorn.


We had to cross through a herd of cows, the air filled with the sound of their bells.

Must be a bit annoying spending your days with a loud bell around your neck?

Those with insurance can also ride down on these scooters for hire.

Instead of cruising back to Interlaken on the (relatively infrequent) boat we took a bus from Beatenberg.  Fun fact: Beatenberg is the longest village in Europe!  The bus wound its way along the side of the hill most of the way back, then descended steeply through a series of hairpins back down to Interlaken.